
If you would like to have McManus Quilting do your machine quilting, please read the Price section. There is formula for finding your own price estimate. Prices are also listed for batting and backing.
Please print the customer acknowledgment page, sign, and leave with your quilt. Thank you! You will only need one signed acknowledgment on file, however you will be responsible for knowing any updates to the customer agreement (such as price changes, etc.)
is Coming this March! If you've never heard of a quilter's run it something you should try. All the quilt shop owners in San Diego County have come together to throw a week long party - you visit each store and there will be drawings for prizes, games, treats, and great store specials. Call or stop by Memory Lane Quilt shop for all the information: www.memorylanequiltshop.com or (619) 562-2288
http://www.cruisinquilters.com/html/stores.asp
Happenings Around Town, Gadget & Gizmo and Book Reviews and everything else...
Dream Poly Batting: www.dreampoly.com
They have information on battings that I use. I carry their Blend, Dream Poly Select, Dream Poly Deluxe, Dream Puff, and Dream Poly Black. There are also unusual battings such as Dream Angel Heavenly Batting of 100% Flame Retardant Fibers which is great for children's quilts!; DREAM WOOL Made with a blend of fine Domestic and Merino wool, this wool is scoured and super-washed for superior cleanliness and to eliminate shrinkage (I hear wonderful reviews on this for those who hand quilt); and Quilters Dream Cotton is 100% Pure Cotton Batting. I do not carry these specialty battings but you can find them at quilt stores such as Memory Lane.
The San Diego Quilt Show is coming this September - so please try and come out and see great quilts, visit the merchant mall, and have lot's of fun with quilter's from all over this great nation!
The San Diego Quilt Show has a link for all the merchants involved, so please visit them at:
http://www.sandiegoquiltshow.com/shops.htm
also at: www.sandiegoquiltshow.com
Great New Ruler by Creative Grids - the Quarter Square Triangle with grips. This ruler allows you to cut triangles not the old tedious way by cutting out square then cutting those square into quarters but by cutting a strip, laying down the ruler and cutting your triangles with minimum fabric waste. This allows you an easy way to get those side setting triangles without the math & without the "rabbit ears - guessing at what that intersection should be.
Quilters ask all the time - what's a great beginner quilt? I say any quilt that allows you to see progress on your first day and can be reasonably finished after a few sessions at the machine. I love kits because they allow you to forget about the fabric selection and get right into the piecing. Try and find kits that use strip piecing methods, have large pieces, easy instructions, and if possible have most of the pre-cutting done so you sew right away. The best size to start with is a lap size or smaller. I love lap quilts - they are the most versatile, can be taken on the go, and can usually be completed in a reasonable amount of time. Remember - if a quilt is too complicated or has too many small pieces and steps, most quilters become frustrated and never want to quilt again - so keep it easy, keep it fun, and keep quilting!
Things to remember -
Have your sewing machine "tuned up" regularly. Think of it as a car - you wouldn't drive a car for 20,000 miles without an oil change because should you be lucky enough not to have the engine go out, you have certainly shortened it's life expectancy. Your machine is the same principle. If you are an avid quilter, twice a year is what I strongly recommend. If you quilt occasionally, just a few quilt projects a year, then once a year is fine. A tune-up should cost around $39 at most professional stores - or less if you have a coupon. Hint... don't have a coupon? Call and ask if there is a special or coupon available, most places want your business and will offer a discount.... never hurts to ask!
Another practice that will extend the life of your machine and help with consistent quality work is changing the needle. I hear ladies frequently say they only change their needle when it breaks, yikes! Needles are so inexpensive when you look at the big picture of what you are putting into your quilt and they are manufactured to last for only so many stitches. A needle will develop "burrs" that may not be visible to your eye but it is important to change your needle EVERY QUILT project, more often if you are working on a big project.
Thread is another basic that most people ignore. I see people buy the "clearance" cheapo thread. Think about it ladies - this is what is holding your quilt together! Spend a $100 on fabric but a buck on cheap thread??? Buy a quality thread, it's only a buck or two more! A good thread will also leave less lint behind in your machine - again, less wear and tear on your machine will extend the life of it, improve the quality of your stitches, and your quilt will last longer.
Last but not least: Rotary Blades. Your rotary cutter can make your project a chore or a pleasure. If you have a nick in the blade, it cuts but skips cutting a single thread every few inches, replace it! Your blade will dull after every two or three projects, you can sharpen it with rotary blade sharpener's that are out on the market or toss it and put in a new blade. Most people have either limited strength in their hands and wrists (carpal tunnel, arthritis, etc.), they will buy a "ergonomic" cutter but leave in dull blades. How many times have you had to change the blade then gone, "WOW" at how great the new blade cuts through your fabric. Don't forget to change your blade and save your arms and back from struggling with dull or nicked blades. Hint... don't throw used blades into the trash without covering them - or using the cover that the new blade comes in. One reach into a waste basket that has an exposed blade in it could mean stitches to you, a pet, a child.... dull or not, it is a blade and can cause injuries.
This is not really a tip, but a suggestion or reminder. As a machine quilter I see quilts daily. Most are true inspirations, some are reflections of the progress we quilters' have made as we gain experience, all are labors of love. After days, weeks, months working on a top, we get to the borders and think we should just slap something on so we can finally feel we have accomplished our task. When you get ready to put those borders on, stand back, take a deep breath, and give yourself permission to take those extra couple of minutes to put them on right. I have seen a lot of extra inches worked into the side of a quilt because the quilter took a strip that was longer and sewed it on, then cut the excess off. They were unaware that those "wavy" borders make us machine quilters' go crazy. It will cause puckers and worse in the quilt. Measure your quilt through the middle, cut your borders to that measurement and pin and ease as necessary. Quilts that are set on the diagonal have the most problems with stretching so be gentle you don't stretch the sides out. I cut and measure two border strips at once so that if I was off by 1/4 of inch or something, I am off the same amount on both sides of the quilt. Work your way around the quilt using the same method with every border you add. Take the extra few minutes to finish your top off the way it deserves - with beauty and grace, smooth sides, and a consistent shape. Give yourself a pat on the back and take that quilt out to show everyone your latest pride and joy!
Binding
Here are some pictures for those who need help putting their binding on. A VERY BRIEF reminder...
Make 2 1/2 inch binding strips by drawing a line on the diagonal and sew on line, trim, then press the entire length in half.
Sew on to quilt using 1/4 inch seam allowance. When you come to a corner, stop 1/3 inch from end. Pull quilt out, fold binding back on itself, rub for crease, then lift to top, then fold back down on itself again.
Once binding is on, trim quilt - then you are ready to turn over and hand sew down.
Preparing
a quilt for Machine Quilting: Please
sign the Customer Policy sheet and include with your top. You can reach
this link with additional instructions
above. ![]()
1. Make sure all seams and stitches are secure.
2. Trim all excess threads from back that may show through.
3. Do not pin, baste or tack top to backing.
4. Quilt top should lie flat. Machine Quilting will not fix tops that ripple, nor will it correct uneven borders. Tucks may appear in tops that have uneven sides, problem borders, or misaligned patchwork.
5. The color thread used on the top is recommended in the bobbin. Using different colors may show through on the backing.
6. Have ironing/pressing completed prior to dropping your work off. Any ironing or pressing you request will be an extra charge. Some fabrics with deep creases in them from the bolt should be ironed to avoid puckers and folds that would be quilted down and made permanent.
7. Batting and Backing must be 6" larger in width and length than your top.
8. Bed sheets are very dense and are not recommended. Stitches do not smoothly sink in and may sit on the fabric. I cannot use poly-cotton mixes for backings.
9. Seams on backings can create flares and may cause puckers. Keep in mind that with machine quilting, the quilter cannot see the backing. Backings that are pieced or backings where the straight of grain has been tweaked can result in occasional puckers on the back.